=====Assembly=====

This project is fairly simple as far as any construction is concerned, but there are still some small things that need to be done. 

**Pipe**

If you did not order your clear PVC pre-cut, then you are going to want to make those cuts now. I recommend measuring out the pieces to be about 20 inches each. Make sure to use the proper blade when cutting the PVC, and **ALWAYS** wear the proper safety gear.

**Conduit**

In order to make the project look a bit better, we are going to want to hide most of the wiring from view. In order to achieve this, we will use some pieces of conduit running up the back of the pipes. I recommend ordering the aluminum conduit listed in my parts list, as it is inexpensive and easy to cut. Cut these pieces to around 16". 

Next, we must attach the conduit to the pipe. First, attach one of the pipe flanges to the bottom of the pipe, and attach one of the elbows to the top of the pipe. Center your conduit with one of the sets of holes on the bottom of the pipe flange. I chose to lay the conduit on top of the lettering on the pipe, however this is not necessary. Hold your conduit in place and hot glue it to the pipe with a bit of room left at the top of the pipe (shown below).

{{ http://i.imgur.com/jfeTUS6.jpg?500x500 }}

Finally, drill a hole about 1/4" in diameter above the conduit at the top of the pipe (shown below). This will allow the wires to be fed into the pipe.

{{ http://i.imgur.com/fRbfF5h.jpg?500x500 }}

**Audio Posts**

In order to efficiently transfer the audio signal through the pipes, we are going to use a set of audio posts at the base of the pipe in order to route the signal from the amplifier. Take all the hardware off of the posts, and attach them to the pipe flange with one nut (shown below). 

{{ http://i.imgur.com/EgDUkdz.jpg?500x500 }}

Once you have your amplifier output wires soldered from the electrical section, attach those to the posts with the other hardware in the following order: audio post, pipe flange, top nut, lock washer, audio output ring, lock washer, bottom nut. This is shown below for reference.

{{ http://i.imgur.com/bA42x0b.jpg?500x500 }}

**Offset Screws**

In order to ensure that the speakers stand up when on a desk, and that they have the proper airflow required for the bass reflex, we will need to use screws to stand off the pipe flanges from their surface. I used 1/4"-20 screws through 4 of the pipe flange holes in order to maintain the proper balance. This may vary with your setup. Use whatever you feel is appropriate for your project. Make sure to use a nut to secure the screw at the bottom of the pipe flange.

**Full Assembly**

Once you have wired up all of the circuitry and everything is working well after testing, you will want to put the finishing touches on your speakers to ensure that they stay together well. Use hot glue or tape to secure the LEDs in place along the inner edges to the pipe. Make sure not to burn yourself, and to allow the glue to dry before moving onto the next step.

Now you may glue in place the speaker at the top of the pipe. This speaker is a tight fit into the pipe, so the glue will ensure that it lays flush with the pipe and does not come off when jostled around.

Finally, you will want to ziptie many of your jumbled wires together to ensure a clean looking project. Use your own discretion on how much of this you want to do.

Now you are ready to be rocking and rolling with your brand new LED speakers!