How to Use the DASL 3D Printers

Author: Santiago Ricoy Email: [email protected]
Date: Last modified on 01/11/24
Keywords: 3D Printing, Tutorial, FDM, Beginner Guide

The photo above depicts our DASL 3D printers including models such as Pacman, Holiday, Zigzag, and Dave. These printers are essential for creating physical models from digital designs. Understanding how to use these printers effectively is crucial for successful 3D printing projects. This tutorial provides step-by-step instructions and takes approximately 30 minutes to complete.

This tutorial is designed to assist beginners and those unfamiliar with Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D print settings in using the DASL 3D printers effectively. It assumes the reader has the following experience:

* Basic understanding of 3D modeling
* Interest in learning FDM 3D printing
* Familiarity with computer operation and software installation

The rest of this tutorial is presented as follows:

• Parts List and Sources
• Setup and Configuration
• Slicing and Printing
• Configure Print Settings
• Safety measures
• Post-Printing Process
• Troubleshooting (to be updated as issues arise
• Final Words

You can place this list at the beginning of your DokuWiki page. When users click on these links, they will be taken to the corresponding section within your tutorial.

The primary resources needed for this tutorial include the OrcaSlicer software and specific printer profiles. The details are outlined in the table below:

Step 1: Launch OrcaSlicer

• Open the OrcaSlicer software on your computer.
• OrcaSlicer will ask for the addition of specific printer models as part of the first setup.
• The printers that MUST be selected (by clicking the checkbox under them) are the CR-10 (V2) and QIDI X-Max (the first version)
• It would also likely benefit the user to check the boxes for the Generic Marlin and Generic Klipper printers.

• Download and import the provided printer profiles (“printer_profiles.zip”).
• Extract the contents of the given .zip file into a folder
• Use the 'Import Configs' feature in OrcaSlicer to open in the import dialogue.

• Select all of the configs in the folder you extracted to (CTRL+A works well here) and click “Open” to continue the import process.

Step 2: Printer Overview

• Familiarize yourself with our CR-10 printers. From left to right in the photo: Pacman, Holiday, Zigzag, and Dave.

Step 3: Load Your 3D Model

• Open your 3D model file and position it on the print bed.
• Use the OrcaSlicer toolbar for adjustments.

Step 4: Configuring Print Settings
On the left side of the OrcaSlicer interface, you'll find three important settings categories to configure:

• Printer Selection (listed as “Printer”):

• Choose your printer from the options available, such as a CR-10 (there are 4 of these), X-Max, the Taz, or others in the lab that may not be included at this time.
• Note that the Taz Workhorse will have its own dedicated section. This general guide will work well for the Creality CR-10 V2 and V3 models, and are currently set to match the correct nozzle size for each.

• Filament Type:

• Select the type of filament loaded on your chosen printer. Common options include PLA, PETG, ABS, or ASA, depending on your project's requirements.
• Avoid adjusting the parameters in these profiles as they've been proven over many cycles. Most adjustments will come from the “Process” profiles.
• Review which filament is actually loaded on the printer you've selected. Often, one printer will consistently use a type of filament to ensure more reliable performance.
• Use a glue stick for PETG on glass plates but avoid using PETG on PEI coated sheets due to the risk of damage.

• Printing Profile (listed as “Process”):

• Choose the appropriate custom DASL profile for your filament and printer combination. Example: “0.20mm Layers CR10V3 PETG (0.4mm Nozzle) without Supports”.
• These profiles are pre-configured for materials like PLA and PETG at the time of writing. These are given without support structures, which you can enable in the “Support” section of the print settings if needed.
• The settings should work for most materials when chosen accordingly, and layer heights can be adjusted as needed.
• It is highly recommended that the user stick to the DASL profiles given as they are made to work consistently. If they do not work, then they must be modified for ease of future printing.

• Sparse infill density and the pattern (this is in the Strength section)
• Top/Bottom surface and solid infill patterns
• Top and bottom shell layers
• Wall loops
• Brim and brim type
• Skirt loops
• Print sequence
• Layer height (up to 75% of your nozzle width).

Feel free to experiment a bit.

There are a few safety measures implemented in the profiles. For example, you might get a warning if you increase the layer height too much. Or you might increase the speed, but the program will slow it down to stay inside the printer's limits.

It is still very possible to have a print fail, but with the profiles given there is a strong likelihood of success.
IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT A SETTING MEANS, PLEASE DO NOT CHANGE IT.

Step 5: Slice Your Model

• Use the 'Slice Plate' or 'Slice All' feature to prepare your model for printing.

Step 6: Preview Your Print

• Check the sliced model in the 'Preview' tab.
• Ensure the print settings are correct.

Step 7: Connect to the Printer

• Be sure you are connected to the 3D printer wifi router. The ID at this time is “daslprint3d” and if you are authorized you'll be given the password.

• Log in to the 'Device' tab within Orca, using the provided username and password you received from other lab members.

• Select the correct printer from the list. If using Pacman for example, “/dev/octo_pacman/” is the correct printer.
• Do not be worried that the “Zigzag” profile is selected within Octoprint. This has nothing to do with your actual print settings within Orca slicer.
• Additionally, do not worry if the web cam feed is on the wrong printer, this is still being resolved.

Step 8: Starting the Print

• Click 'Print' and select 'Upload and Print' to start the printing process.

Step 9: Removing Printed Objects

• Allow the build plate to cool before attempting to remove printed objects, especially for PETG.
• Use appropriate tools and techniques depending on the build plate type (glass or PEI coated steel).

If you have issues connecting to Octoprint, look at your printer and click the connections icon (commonly called the wifi symbol), then click “Browse”.
Your system might ask if you want to allow Orca to access the network. Say “yes” to this, and then it should work.
If network problems persist, please consult the current standing 3D print room manager (at the moment this is Thomas McNulty).

This tutorial aimed to provide a comprehensive guide for beginners to start using the DASL 3D printers. By following these instructions, users should be able to confidently print their 3D models and understand the basic principles of FDM printing. Future enhancements to this tutorial could include advanced printing techniques and troubleshooting common printing issues.
For questions or clarifications, Email: santiago.r.ricoy@gmail.com